Lichtenstein

History

Schloss Lichtenstein, the "Fairy Tale Castle of Württemberg," dramatically crowns a rugged cliff above the Echaz Valley near Honau in the Swabian Alps, Germany. Built in striking Gothic Revival style between 1840 and 1842 by Count Wilhelm of Württemberg, the castle was inspired by Wilhelm Hauff's romantic novel "Lichtenstein."

The original castle, dating to around 1100, was home to the Knights of Lichtenstein. Constructed roughly 500 meters from the current castle, now referred to as "Old Lichtenstein," it served as a stronghold for these knights, who were loyal retainers first to the Counts of Achalm, then to the Counts of Württemberg.

The Lords of Lichtenstein, who resided in the imposing castle, displayed open hostility toward the Free Imperial City of Reutlingen, leading to frequent sieges and battles.

The old castle was destroyed twice. Forces from Reutlingen first destroyed it in 1311, during the imperial civil war against Count Eberhard of Württemberg, and it was rebuilt after a peace agreement in 1315. It was destroyed again between 1377 and 1381 (some sources say 1388), when the citizens of Reutlingen attacked during the "Wars of the Cities." Rafe of Lichtenstein died at the Battle of Reutlingen. This time, the castle was not rebuilt and fell into ruin, and the site is still known as Alt-Lichtenstein.

In 1390, a formidable new castle rose on today's site. It stood as a dominant stronghold of the Late Middle Ages, with early, thick-walled casemates that rendered it nearly impregnable.

In 1567, the castle stopped serving as the duke's official residence. Duke Christoph replaced the castellan with a forest warden, and the castle began to fall into ruin.

After the last member of the Lichtenstein family line died in 1687 during the Great Turkish War, the Habsburgs took over the castle.

In 1802, King Frederick I of Württemberg had the upper parts of the dilapidated fortress removed. In their place, he built a modest timber-frame hunting lodge and forest warden's residence on the old foundations.

In the 19th century, Romanticism and medieval virtues, such as chivalry, became popular among elites. At the same time, Gothic Revival architecture began at Cologne Cathedral. Later, in 1826, Wilhelm Hauff published "Lichtenstein," making the castle central to the story. This inspired Count Wilhelm of Württemberg, a cousin of King Wilhelm I and a collector of arms, armor, and art with a strong interest in medieval history. He later became the first Duke of Urach (1810-1869). In 1837, he bought the hunting lodge and estate from the king.

Construction of a romantic neo-Gothic knight's castle began in 1840 on the medieval foundations, rising three stories tall. It was designed primarily by the architect Carl Alexander Heideloff of Nuremberg, with construction supervised by Johann Georg Rupp of Reutlingen. Count Wilhelm heavily influenced the design and furnished the interiors himself. Adjoining buildings, a courtyard, and a curtain wall completed the complex. The castle was inaugurated in 1842, with the king in attendance.

After the Revolution of 1848, Count Wilhelm began building outwork caponiers in the style of the Fortress of Ulm. Later, he added cannons to the bastions.

In 1857, a formidable barbican and outer bailey, featuring imposing corner bastions and slender turrets, were added. The castle became the official residence of the Dukes of Urach, a branch of the House of Württemberg, and Duke Wilhelm died there in 1869. Further buildings, including the Fürstenbau, were added around 1901.

In April 1945, during World War II, the castle came under artillery fire from advancing U.S. forces who suspected German soldier positions nearby. Almost all windows were shattered; only the chapel's stained glass suffered minor damage. The tower took serious structural damage.

Repairs to the tower began in 1945-1946, while restoration inside the castle continued for decades, with work on the walls in 1980 and the second floor in 1998. Finally, in 2002, the upper floor and roof were restored.

Castle Highlights

Schloss Lichtenstein sits high above the Echaz Valley, resembling a castle in the sky. Guided tours of the interior last about 30 minutes, with new tours starting roughly every 20 minutes.

The tour covers the castle's first and second floors. It passes through the armory, the chapel, the Knights' Hall, the King's Room, a room with a bay window, and the drinking room, as well as a richly painted room with coats of arms.

The armory displays a manual cannon, firestone boxes, steel helmets, a sword for killing bears, an executioner's sword, a page's armor, a crossbow, and a mace. A window offers a magnificent view, and Stuttgart lies in that direction. The most beautiful armor here is exquisitely chiseled, but it is not antique. It was made for Count Wilhelm, the builder of the castle, for an equestrian festival. The oldest armor in the room is about 600 years old.

The ducal family is Catholic, and services are held in the chapel often. Its beautifully painted window panes date as far back as the 15th century. The panels showing the Nativity and the Annunciation were painted by Michael Wohlgemuth, the teacher of Albrecht Dürer. Three sculptures in the chapel belong to the Swabian School of the 14th and 15th centuries, and daylight shining through the red glass casts a red glow. The most beautiful painting in the castle dates from 1450 and shows the death of Our Lady surrounded by the Apostles. Its painter is unknown, and art historians refer to him as the Master of Lichtenstein. The painting has never been restored.

The Knights' Hall, also called the Reception Hall, spans the entire width of the castle. It holds a portrait of King William I and, on the opposite wall, a portrait of his wife, Queen Pauline. Another painting shows Count Wilhelm, the first cousin of the king, who built the castle as it stands today. He wears the armor you saw in the armory. The other large portrait shows his son in the uniform of the White Dragoons, who led the 26th Division in the 1914-1918 war. The hall also holds an old spinet and several drinking cups, the center one a gift from King Ludwig I of Bavaria.

The King's Room has a finely decorated ceiling showing members of the House of Württemberg. Duke Ulrich, one of the family's most famous ancestors and the hero of Hauff's novel "Lichtenstein," took refuge in this castle. Duke Eberhard, with the beard, appears on the opposite side. He founded the University of Tübingen in 1477. A fresco shows Eberhard the Warrior and his son Ulrich, who died in the Battle of Döffingen. The malachite candlesticks were a gift from the Russian czar.

The room with the bay window holds more paintings from the Swabian School, including the Coronation of Our Lady by the Master of Lichtenstein, the Adoration of the Three Wise Men by Jörg Ratgeb, and the Death of St. Benedict. A case displays the death masks of Napoleon, Moltke, Schiller, Goethe, and Uhland. In the middle of the room stands a 16th-century sewing table, and above it hangs a beautiful painting of the Annunciation.

The tour ends in the drinking room, where the walls are decorated with jolly hunting scenes. Here the hunters were merry, held speeches, and brought toasts. Beautiful Venetian and Bohemian glasses sit on the shelves, and pewter jugs stand on the tables. The antique clock on the wall is made entirely of wood, including the works inside. A trick painting at the head of the stairs shows an archer who aims his bow and arrow at you wherever you happen to be standing.

Half a day suffices to explore Lichtenstein Castle. The nearby Swabian Alps castle, Schloss Hohenzollern, can also be visited on the same day.